How to quiet that 22lr

How to make a silencer and the knowledge to manufacture them from unconventional materials could be a critical component to your survival repertoire when the need to eliminate a target in silence is required. The following directions are simple, and in states like Nevada silencers are legal but check your state’s laws before attempting to make a silencer. For this example we are using a .22 caliber pistol, but these instructions can be applied to other calibers.

How to make a silencer from a MagliteMaterialsMaglite 2D CellScrewdriverHammerPVCFabric/Steel WoolMPH Tape (Duct Tape)First you must completely disassemble your Maglite flash light, removing all of the guts and leaving on the cylinder housing. You can use the hammer and screwdriver to eject internal components.You can use tape and/or PVC around the inner housing of your Maglite to form a snug fit around the barrel, if using PVC ensure it slides tights into the housing tightly to prevent a breakdown in materials after use.Use tape to line the outside of your PVC to secure the Suppressor to the Barrel.Read the following article to under the dynamics of a suppressor.Test fire with proper precaution.Intermediate SilencerMaterialsFiberglass MatFiberglass Resin and HardenerDrill Rod 7/32″ (.22 Caliber Specific)12″ of 1/4″ brake line12″ 1 1/2″ PVC tubing + 2 end capsOne Roll Masking Tape1/8″ and 3/16″ drill bitsRubber BandsRazor BladesEye DropperWhite Lithium Grease6 Wood Screws80X Sand PaperSteel WoolHow to make a Silencer Construction Part ICut a 10″ piece from the brake line and drill a series of evenly distributed 1/8″ ventilation holes across it’s length starting 1 1/2″ from the end of the brake line.Now enlarge those holes with a 3/16″ drill bit.Use your masking tape to mask off the end of the gun barrel and do no allow the tape to wrinkle while keeping tight.Place the drill rod down the barrel to keep the brake line aligned. Perfect alignment is extremely important. Sometimes the drill rod will be a little too large to fit into the barrel. In this case, chuck the drill rod into a drill and turn it down with a file or sandpaper, a little at a time, until it fits perfectly.


How to make a Silencer Construction Part II Wrap glass mat around the end of the gun barrel and brake line three times. Secure it in place with rubber bands every half inch. The glass mat should be wrapped about two

inches behind the sight and up to the first holes on the brake line.Now mix the resin. A few spoonfuls will do. Mix it two or three times hotter than the package directions.Brace the weapon in an upright position and dab the resin onto the glass mat with a brush. Keep applying resin until the mat is no longer white but becomes transparent from absorption of the resin.As soon as the resin starts to harden and becomes tacky, detach the brake line and fiberglass from the barrel. Do this quickly before the resin hardens completely.

First use a razor blade to cut a notch behind the front sight so that the whole piece can be removed. Then push on the fiberglass to slide it off. Do not pull it off from the other end as the alignment will be thrown off.


How to make a Silencer Construction Part III  After removal from the gun barrel, peel out the tape and allow it to finish hardening.

Use a sander, grinder or 80x sandpaper to smooth out the hardened rough surface.

Next, grind the sides down about halfway, but do not grind past the point where the front sight makes contact. Cut it down until the barrel fits snugly and easily.Stand the glassed brake line upright in a vise.Mix a small amount of resin and use an eyedropper to fill in any interior holes or air bubbles until the solid fiberglass is level with the steel tube end. This will give the junction between the brake line and fiberglass coupling added strength. Acetone can be used to clean the eyedropper.Cut the PVC tubing to the desired length. A longer silencer will be necessary for more powerful cartridges.Drill a large hole in the center of one end cap, making it large enough to fit on the fiberglass end to the point where the front sight makes contact.Drill a series of 3/16″ holes in the bottom of the end cap.Wrap masking tape around the end cap to cover the holes.Stand the cap with the inside tube inserted into a vise. Get the cap level and straight with the brake line.Cut two dozen or so 1/2″ squares of fiberglass mat and fill the end cap with it up past the level of the row of holes.Mix resin and pour it over the cut matting to a point about 1/4″ above the holes and allow it to dry before removing the cap from the vise. Don’t worry about any resin that leaks out around the base hole. Resin fills the small holes, making the tube strong enough to withstand the muzzle blast.When the inside is hardened, turn the assembly over and fiberglass around the backside of the end cap for added strength. Avoid getting resin in the opening where the barrel fits.

Place the finished cap and inner tube on one end of the PVC tubing that has already been cut to size. Center the brake line as you look in the open end of the PVC.Now drill a 1/8″ hole in three places around the tube about 1/4″ from the lip of the cap. Take the brake line out and enlarge the holes in the cap to 3/16″ Replace the brake line and tighten it down with three small wood screws. Trim the brake line down until it extends about 1/2″ beyond the PVC tube.Sharpen one end of the drill rod to a point and use it as a center-punch. Stand the assembly up with the solid end cap down. Drop the drill rod down the brake line to get a true center mark.Using a drill bit slightly larger than the outside diameter of the brake line, remove the end cap and drill the hole.Cut a circle of 1/4″ thick rubber which fits snug into the end cap. This rubber swipe will help prevent any hot gasses from escaping even after many shot have been fired through it because rubber tends to stretch and rip rather that have material blasted out of it by a gunshot. The hole will reseal itself after firing keeping the system nice and tight. Replace this swipe whenever the bullet hole becomes too large to contain gasses. This step will make a big difference, particularly in small silencers.Replace the cap on the open end of the PVC tube and drill three 1/8″ holes around the cap as before for wood screws.The brake line should push into and slightly stretch the rubber swipe. The swipe should not stick out past the face of the cap. Grind off the end of the brake line to get a perfect fit.

Unfold sections of steel wool and roll into long strands.Apply white lithium grease to each strand before feeding them into the silencer tube in a circular motion. The white grease helps to cool the hot gasses of the muzzle blast, thereby reducing the loudness of the gunshot. Pack the steel wool tight with a stick, continue this until the silencer tube is completely full.



How to make a Silencer Construction Part IVReplace the end cap with the three screws.Paint the finished silencer flat black and attach it to your weapon. Proper alignment can be ensured by using a hose clamp around the barrel extension behind the front sight. Test as described in the Silenced .22 LR Weapons.This silencer can be counted on to function for over 300 rounds before it will be necessary to open it up and repack it with new steel wool and lithium grease.

Also look into preppersdiscount.com


Nuclear Bomb Effects and Knowledge

In this guide we are going to comprehensively review the effects of a nuclear bomb in a major metropolitan area. Many people within the prepper community believe a zombie apocalypse is more likely than a nuclear war. I couldn’t disagree any more, because of a long held belief I’ve had in Murphy’s Law — anything that can go wrong, will go wrong. As of 2015, there are 9 countries with nuclear arsenals with a combined total of fifteen-thousand nuclear weapons, with three of these countries having contentious relations. You should know the effects of a nuclear bomb, thus enabling you to prepare in an adequate manner.


“There are major differences between the United States and the Soviet Union that affect the nature of their vulnerability to nuclear attacks, despite the fact that both are large and diversified industrial countries. Differences between the two countries in terms of population distribution, closeness of population to other targets, vulnerability of agricultural systems, vulnerability of cities to fire, socioeconomic system, and political system create significant asymmetries in the potential effects of nuclear attacks.” — Office of Technology Assessment


Nuclear Blast


Instantly after a nuclear detonation the heat created from the blast’s fireball will create a high pressure wave moving outward creating a blast wave up to seven miles or more. Highly compressed air will move at a powerful velocity. This immense pressure can move at the speed of sound. The graph below shows the different wind speeds, and over-pressure PSI (pounds per square inch)


As you can see the closer to the detonation site the higher the peak pressure PSI and maximum wind speed. Anything over 5 PSI guarantees fatalities, with injuries likely for subsequent PSI. Want to see a cool little trick? If you put your city’s information into this Interactive Nuke Map by NuclearSecrecy.com you’ll see blast effects for your area including; fireball radius, air-blast radius, radiation radius, secondary air-blast radius, and thermal radiation radius. If you look at the graphic below you will see the structural effects of a nuclear blast.


Physical Effects after The Flash


When people think about the effects of a nuclear blast they don’t consider the immediate physical effects of a nuclear blast, and the long lasting effects. Sure, a lot of you are going to die a quick death, but survivors of a nuclear attack will be faced with a wholly unprecedented situation. The economic, social, and political condemnations are going to be staggering, but the physical effects are going to have to be dealt with immediately.


Flash Blindness


Flash blindness is visual impairment during and following exposure to a light flash of extremely high intensity i.e. the flash from a nuclear detonation. In some instances flash blindness can be temporary, and can last for a few minutes, to a few hours, and permanently when corneal flash burns occur after a nuclear blast. Temporary blindness may be treated depending on its cause. Aspirin or blood thinners may be prescribed to prevent blood clots, high cholesterol level and high blood pressure. Ultrasound scan of blood vessels in the neck to look for narrowing or blockages after which surgical operation may be introduced. Cool wet compresses, artificial tears, special eye-drops as well as oral medication may be prescribed to reduce pain after sunburn. patients may stay in dark room, avoid rubbing the eyes and wear sunglasses until symptoms improve (this may take one to three days).


Thermal Radiation


Damage as a result of thermal radiation is much more severe towards humans. The very intense heating from the fireball causes “flash burns,” where the more thermal radiation absorbed, the worse the burn becomes. Interestingly, anyone within 10 miles of the blast will become blind whether their eyes are open, or shut. The burns are in degrees;


1st Not serious – painful and reddening of skin. Continues for minutes to hour.2nd Dermal tissue damage –Pain and reddening with blisters. Regenerating ability, no scars. Possible infection.3rd Tissue death throughout skin – No regeneration w/o grafting. Scarring, serious risk of infection, and serious fluid loss.4th/5th Destroys tissue below skin, muscle, connective tissue – Can cause exposed flesh to flash into steam, flaying exposed body area to the bone.Radar Blackout


Blackout is the interference with radio and radar waves resulting from an ionized region of the atmosphere. Nuclear detonations, other than those underground or far away in outer space, generate the flow of a huge number of gamma rays and X-rays that move in a general direction away from the detonation. These photons produce a large number of ionizing events in the atoms and molecules in the air, creating a very large region of ions. A large number of electrons are stripped away from their atoms, and move in a direction away from the detonation. This leaves a large number of positively charged atoms closer to the detonation, creating an ionized region with positively charged atoms close to the detonation and negatively charged particles farther from the detonation.


Electromagnetic Pulse


A high-altitude nuclear detonation produces an immediate flux of gamma rays from the nuclear reactions within the device. These photons in turn produce high energy free electrons by Compton scattering at altitudes between (roughly) 20 and 40 km. These electrons are then trapped in the Earth’s magnetic field, giving rise to an oscillating electric current. This current is asymmetric in general and gives rise to a rapidly rising radiated electromagnetic field called an electromagnetic pulse (EMP). Because the electrons are trapped essentially simultaneously, a very large electromagnetic source radiates coherently. The pulse can easily span continent-sized areas, and this radiation can affect systems on land, sea, and air. The first recorded EMP incident accompanied a high-altitude nuclear test over the South Pacific and resulted in power system failures as far away as Hawaii. A large device detonated at 400-500 km over Kansas would affect all of CONUS. The signal from such an event extends to the visual horizon as seen from the burst point.


Ionizing Radiation


Ionizing radiation is radiation with enough energy so that during an interaction with an atom, it can remove tightly bound electrons from the orbit of an atom, causing the atom to become charged or ionized. Here we are concerned with only one type of radiation, ionizing radiation, which occurs in two forms – waves or particles. Forms of electromagnetic radiation. These differ only in frequency and wavelength.


Heat wavesRadio-wavesInfrared lightVisible lightUltraviolet lightX raysGamma rays


Longer wavelength, lower frequency waves (heat and radio) have less energy than shorter wavelength, higher frequency waves (X and gamma rays). Not all electromagnetic (EM) radiation is ionizing. Only the high frequency portion of the electromagnetic spectrum which includes X rays and gamma rays is ionizing.



How to make nitro

OK, Danger Rangers in this guide we are going to teach you How to Make Nitroglycerin C3H5 (NO3)3.  There are all kinds of reasons for knowing How to Make Nitroglycerin, and before I get liberal loons coming out the closet to be offended which is apparently their favorite pastime, you need to know making nitroglycerin will not only let you blow shit up, but will save lives too.  Nitroglycerin is a vasodilator that opens up your blood vessels and can be used to treat angina, chest pain, and get blood pumping to your ticker.

Now, if you want to make nitroglycerin to blow shit up then by all means soak in all the knowledge you want.  Be forewarned we do not advise anyone make nitroglycerin until after the shit hits the fan, or else you’ll end up in federal prison for the better part of your life.  Nitroglycerin is very dangerous and all protective measures should be put in place.

How to Make NitroglycerinFirst you will need to fill a 100 ml beaker to the 13 ml mark with fuming nitric acidPlace beaker in an ice bathCool the fuming nitric acid to 0°Slowly pour 39 ml of fuming sulfuric acidMonitor the temperature as you pour the fuming sulfuric acid with a centigrade thermometerNever let the temperature get over 15°After the fuming sulfuric acid and fuming nitric acid are combined and maintain a 15° temperature slowly add a few drops of glycerin to coat the top of the solution (never let the temperature rise above 25°)Your mixture is now nitratedSlowly mix your nitrated solutionGently stir the mixtureNitroglycerin will form on the surfacePut the solution into another beaker of waterThe nitroglycerin will then settle on the bottomRemove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropperPlace the nitroglycerin into baking soda to neutralize residual acidsRemove the nitroglycerin from the baking soda with an eyedropperYou now have nitroglycerinYour solution should burn blue if pure


Body amour guide

Body armor is a layer of protection typically focused around major body organs worn by civilians, law enforcement officials, and military personnel.  This layer of protection can keep bullets, knives, and shrapnel from entering the wearer’s major organs, and often prevent trauma and/or death.  Currently there is no body armor available that protects you from all calibers, but some can stop the most common calibers.

There are two types of body armor, hard and soft, both have their benefits and disadvantages.  Soft body armor is light, while keeping your mobility from being restricted and is commonly used by LEOs (law enforcement officials) to protect from small caliber rounds such as pistol rounds.  Hard body armor plates or ballistic plates are heavy, restrict your mobility a little bit, while protecting the wearer from higher caliber rifle rounds commonly used by military personnel.

Even though soft body armor is cheaper, lighter, and keeps you more agile, I still prefer and suggest people wear ballistic plates.  Sure, soft armor might be OK for LEOs who will encounter small arms fire more than rifle fire, but our readers are riflemen who generally read usCrow as part of a ‘grander design’ in mind requiring something with a bit more stopping power.

Body Armor Ratings

The National Institute of Justice (NIJ) is the standard for ballistic resistances of body armor.  According to NIJ Standards there are three primary types of body armor rated by their resistance to specific caliber rounds from the smallest to the largest…

Type IIA rated for 9mm FMJ or less (typically for lower quality soft armor)Type IIIA rated for .357 SIG FMJ, 7.62mm FMJ or less (typically for soft armor and some hard armor plates)Type IV hard armor plates are rated for complete ballistic protection (ballistic grade body armor plates)Soft Body Armor

Don’t get me wrong, soft armor has its place in certain combat conditions, but as most guys will tell you when you get hit with a round while wearing soft body armor it hurts like a son of a bitch.  Not only does it hurt when you get hit, there’s still the possibility your soft armor won’t stop the round because no soft armor is ‘bullet proof’.  NIJ IIIA soft armor typically costs over a grand but if you’re lucky you can get it cheaper.  When considering purchasing soft armor remember…

all guns are deadlythere is no such thing as bulletproofrifle rounds will get throughif it’s older than five years get rid of itkeep it clean but don’t get it wethang it up when storing

Where can you buy soft body armor? One of the places I like to order my armor from is The Target Man offering relatively affordable soft body armor inserts anywhere between a hundred to four-hundred dollars.

Can you make soft body armor?  Of course you can, and depending on how H.R. 5344 turns out making it might be your only option.  Luckily, you can download thePoor Man’s Bulletproof Vest, a guide to making your own soft body armor.

Hard Armor Ballistic Plates

As I said above ballistic plates are the way to go!  Ballistic Plates should be standard PPE (In accordance to MOPP Standards) for your team. The presence of hostile elements in all disasters (man-made or natural) is an eternal truth. Having access to these plates will make the difference between life and death. Ideally, you want standalone ballistic plates that can be used in conjunction with a plate carrier instead of a bulletproof vest. The most basic and user-friendly way to achieve this is with heavy steel or ceramic plates that have been improved.  When consider ballistic plates remember…

ballistic plates are heavythey will inhibit your mobilityplates make you run hotter than normaltrain with armor on or else you’ll be offbreathing will be slightly more more difficultrunning for long periods will be a bitch

Where to buy ballistic plates?  Luckily over the past few years ballistic plates have become very inexpensive, much more inexpensive than soft armor. Companies like AR500 Armor have become a benchmark for civilian, LEO, and military ballistic plate inserts.  They’re Level IIIA ceramic ballistic plates are very affordable for around a hundred bucks. Additionally, they offer Level IV ballistic plates that are very reliable…

“AR500 Armor® Level IV Body Armor is specifically designed to stop the 30-06 APM2 (7.62x63mm 165gr) Armor Piercing Black Tip Round, and all lesser level III and III+ threats. Utilizing ceramic and composite construction, our Level IV body armor is stand alone does not require any additional backing or soft armor insert to meet its threat level. Level IV Body Armor is the highest threat level personnel body armor can be rated.”


Tactical loadouts

In this guide we’re going to go over tactical loadouts for preppers.  Why should we talk about tactical loadouts?  Most people are under the impression after SHTF survival will be dependent upon your ability to outlast a disaster.  Honestly, I don’t think this is the case.  I think after the apocalypse it won’t be about outlasting disaster, it’ll be about fighting for survival.  For the purposes of this guide do not confuse bug out bags with loadouts.  A tactical loadout is focused on battle components versus survival components.  On the other hand not all preppers are battle hardened bloodthirsty warfighters, ergo preppers’ loadouts are not subject to a the same standards and guidelines.

What does a good SHTF loadout consist of?

You know what really grinds my gears?  Gear fags.  You know who I’m talking about, the tactical ninjas you see at the range with gear that cost well over two grand, scrutinizing others’ ‘cost effective’ gear.  We get it, buddy.  You’re the most tactical fairy in all the land.  Meanwhile back in reality many of us have girlfriends, wives, and families to take care of.  With this in mind if you find something that works for you and fits into your budget, by all means use it.

A good loadout should include a plate carrier that fits well without restricting mobility, can fit Level IIIA (soft body armor) and Level IIIA (body armor plates), rugged, well made, and sustainable (I want this stuff to last longer than a decade if possible). Additionally, you want your carrier to be inexpensive when possible.  For instance I love Mayflower’s rigbut its $800, and cheaper rigs like the DLP Marauder cost around $300 so you decide.  Some people may not like MOLLE/PALS everywhere, but for preppers they come in handy.  Whatever is included in your loadout should never exceed your body’s limits — if you’re slow in combat you’re dead.  Loadouts should be assembled to mission specific parameters i.e. don’t bring a knife to a gunfight.  No matter what loadout you go with, it should not be configured in such a way that restricts access to your primary weapon, secondary weapon, and ammunition.  In fact, your loadout should be focused on the fight, making everything else secondary.  As a rule of thumb, if you’re an athletic person over 5’8″, your loadout shouldn’t exceed 45lbs.  With all these guidelines in mind we’ve drawn up a few loadouts for three different kinds of people. While each loadout may not fit for your specific needs, it’s a good place to start…

Warfighter Loadout

A warfighter loadout can be used when you have a specific mission that will lead to (or could very well lead to) combat.  Throughout usCrow.org we present many scenarios in which you will be in a firefight highlighting the need for such a loadout.  What should a warfighter loadout include?

Load bearing plate carrier with ballistic plate inserts, magazine pouches, mag dump pouches, and a couple pouches for your radio, GPS (or compass), flashlight with strobe function and an IR cover, smoke grenade, and a water canteenAssault pack with 100oz hydration bladder with; iodine tablets, MREs (2), spare batteries for all your equipment, night vision equipment (PVS-14/PVS-7), rifle cleaning kit, camo face paint, hygiene kit, butt wipes, 550 cord, headlamp, electrical tape, multitool, chem lights, and/or anything specific to the mission at hand i.e. tools for breaching when neededKevlar helmet rated NIJ Level IIIABasic combat load around 180 rounds of ammunition for your primary weapon (see your LBEs guidelines) plus 52 rounds +/- of ammunition for your secondary weaponSemi Automatic Rifle as a primary weapon chambered in 5.56mm or higher with six thirty round magazines (with a couple extra mags in your assault pack for good measure) with accessories including sights (ACOG TA11E/F, Eotech 553 in FDE, or an Elcan SpecterDR in FDE) and a two point slingDrop leg IFAK moved from plate carrier to increase mobilitySidearm as a secondary weapon chambered in .45ACP with four magazinesKnife via MOLLE to your carrier with sharpenerCamouflage fatigues that will help you blend into the surrounding environment with pants that have knee protectionCombat boots with GoreTex for breaching, back support, and ankle supportEye protection like Wiley-X gogglesHand protection like Mechanix Mpact glovesEar protection with some simple Combat Arms EarplugsRecon Loadout

Unlike a Marine Reconnaissance loadout with every damn thing regs require weighing too much, this loadout is meant for a lone prepper who needs to do an actual reconnaissance mission where stealth and mobility are critical to your mission. Ask any recon marine and they’ll tell you their load outs are packed to the brim. Why should you consider having a recon loadout prepared?  Let’s say you’re part of a group that’s holed up in the mountains, and if you were to walk into a clearing that overlooks some small town you see fires off in the distance starting at the furthest edge of town.  As you stare off into the small town below you, you can faintly make out multiple gun shots.  They’re a few miles away, and you figure you’re safe where you are.  The next day however you notice more buildings are on fire, and the gunshots are getting much more distinct.  Whatever is down there is getting closer to you.  So what’s the first step you take?  Reconnaissance.  You need to be able to get down there, monitor the situation, gather intelligence on the threat, and report back to your group to plan an assault.

Load bearing plate carrier with soft plate inserts, magazine pouches, mag dump pouches, and a couples pouches for radio, GPS (or compass), flashlight with strobe function and an IR cover, and a 100oz hydration bladderAssault pack with an MRE, spare batteries, night vision equipment (PVS-14/PVS-7) for night ops, rifle cleaning kit, camo face paint, chem lights, butt wipes, spotting scope like theBushnell LMSS 8-40 60mm and a ghillie suit to match the topographyScout load around 100 rounds of ammunition for your primary weapon (see your LBEs guidelines) plus 52 rounds +/- of ammunition for your secondary weaponScout Rifle like a Steyr SSG 08 as a primary weapon chambered in .308win with six ten round magazines (with a few extra mags in your assault pack for good measure) with a suppressor and a long range scope like the Leupold VX Scout Scope and a two point slingSidearm as a secondary weapon chambered in .45ACP with four magazinesDrop leg IFAK moved from plate carrier to increase mobilityKnife via MOLLE to your carrier with sharpenerCamouflage fatigues that will help you blend into the surrounding environmentEye protection like Wiley-X sunglassesHand protection like Mechanix Mpact glovesEar protection with some simple Combat Arms EarplugsHiking boots with GoreTex for better mobility like Merrells Moab waterproof hiking bootsMedic Loadout

Unlike the other two loadouts this one isn’t appropriate for any other people than medics, or someone with a medical background i.e. paramedics, nurses, CNAs, and doctors.  Otherwise you’re going to have a lot of shit in your loadout you’ll have no idea how to use.  If you have a medical background and in hostile territory, you’re ‘doc’ after SHTF and will need a loadout suited to you in this capacity.

Load bearing plate carrier with ballistic plate inserts, medic chest rig, combat shears, CAT tourniquet, sharpee markers, casualty cards, magazine pouches, mag dump pouches, a couple pouches for your radio, flashlight with strobe function and an IR cover, water canteen, and any other items you feel the need to include on your rig for immediate accessDrop leg holster for sidearm (moved from carrier to allow for easier access to medical equipment)Unit one pack with MREs (2), butt wipes, extra batteries, IV fluid kit, IV catheters, Fast 1 infusion kit, trauma bandages, kerlix gauze, hemostatic agents, 14 gauge catheter for needle chest decompression, chest seals, nasal trumpet, combitube, cricothyrotimy kit, nitrile gloves, alcohol swabs, muslin bandages, bandages, band aids, ace bandages, coban, tape, hypodermic needles, SAM splint, antibiotics, acetaminophen, naproxen, benedryl, and etc with a 100oz hydration bladderBasic combat load around 180 rounds of ammunition for your primary weapon (see your LBEs guidelines) plus 52 rounds +/- of ammunition for your secondary weaponSemi Automatic Rifle as a primary weapon chambered in 5.56mm or higher with six thirty round magazines (with a couple extra mags in your assault pack for good measure) with accessories including sights (ACOG TA11E/F, Eotech 553 in FDE, or an Elcan SpecterDR in FDE)Sidearm as a secondary weapon chambered in .45ACP with four magazinesCamouflage fatigues that will help you blend into the surrounding environment with pants that have knee protectionCombat boots with GoreTex back support, and ankle supportKevlar helmet rated NIJ Level IIIAEye protection like Wiley-X gogglesHand protection like Mechanix Mpact glovesEar protection with some simple Combat Arms Earplugs

Final thoughts…

You have noticed an absence of battle belts in these loadouts and that’s because I can’t stand the damn things.  As I was saying before, your loadout should be catered to your particular tastes, needs, body types, and whatever is critical to the mission at hand. When I look at a lot of other people’s loadouts, especially the tacticool nerd loadouts there’s a lot of unneeded baggage that adds to their total loadout weight while not mission essential. As you can see above these loadouts are set up to be light, keeping your mobility and speed up.  Another thing you might notice is I called for two point slings and not single point slings, while some guys might like the simplicity behind a single point, I however don’t like getting hit in the balls so no thank you.  I’m not infallible by any means and as I said this guide isn’t meant to be true to military specifications, so if you guys have any input feel free to throw down below with your loadouts.


bug out locals

When you pick a bug out location your decision could make the difference between life and death.  Picking the right bug out location could almost guarantee your survival, but to do so there are several mitigating factors that should be accounted for.  In this guide we are going to discuss the several variables for bug out location selection, and the steps you need to take now to ensure a successful consummation.  Simply thinking you can run to grandmother’s house in the woods holing up until the shit ceases to hit the fan could be one of the biggest mistakes you’ve ever made.

There’s an endless list of reasons for bugging out, and in almost all usCrow.org articles we advocate for getting the hell out of Dodge as soon as humany possible, and only in the rarest of occasions do we advise people to shelter in place.  If you’re one of the few that have no other choice but to shelter in place read our article ‘How Preppers can Survive in the City’ for helpful advice on bugging in.  Those who understand the importance of bugging out also accept the many dangers of being in the city after doomsday.

Being in the city when doomsday hits can spell disaster for you and your family.  Currently, only .94 % (approximately) of Americans identify as ‘preppers’.  The average size of an American township is around 20,000 leaving 19,812 people completely unprepared for doomsday.  Just imagine 99.06 % of your city’s population running out of food, water, and no presence of government to keep them from cannibalizing one another.  After SHTF every city in this country will quickly become an abhorrent madhouse.  Let’s get the hell out of here…

Keeping your distance…

In this context of bugging out I will use water as the gold standard for establishing the minimum distance from a metropolitan area.  For example, the assumption is city dwellers will emigrate from the city to more rural areas to find water and food.  Since humans can only survive three days without water, the assumption is they’d only be able to walk up to four days before being inhibited.  People can walk over 20 miles a day, 50 in two days, and can travel over 75 miles with alternate modes of transportation (bikes, motorcycles, ATVs) meaning your safe-zone is outside a 150 mile radius of your city.

In this map I have outlined every major city nearing or over a population with more than a twenty thousand inhabitants.  These red zones are no-go zones.  There are cities located outside red zones with smaller populations allowing for a shorter bug out distance.

If you’re one of the fortunate few living in one of 6,000+ towns with a population of ten to twenty thousand people you may not have to bug out, and if you do have to bug out you don’t have to travel very long.  And if you are one of the unfortunate many that live near or in a red zone your bug out could take well over an hour to get to safety.

Bug Out Location Resources

When considering a bug out location, resources come first.  Even if you’re a damn fine prepper with a great bug out shelter with two years worth of food and water, you’ll eventually run out of food and water.  What resources should we look for in our bug out locations?

Natural freshwater sources such as bogs, ponds, lakes, rivers and streams that undoubtedly require filtering for good measureGood soil that allows for growing foodNatural food sources i.e. edible wild plants such as blackberries, asparagus, elderberries, etcNear areas with wild game like deer, moose, turkey, rabbit, etcNatural camouflage such as dense vegetation to conceal your habitationBug Out Location Options

Look, when I read other websites’ guides to picking bug out locations they make this gross assumption that every person that preps is a multimillionaire.  Blatant absurdities like this are fairly common. ‘Advice is a dangerous gift, even from the wise to the wise, and all courses may run ill’ — J.R.R. Tolkien.  Now, let’s see if we can give you guys some good advice.   Instead of assuming you have a nice cabin nestled in the woods I am going to assume you need to find a place to go or else you wouldn’t be reading this article.  Here’s your bug out options…

Purchasing land as a bug out location…

The average cost of an acre of land in the U.S. is a little over $4,000, and if you truly feel your survival strictly relies upon your ability to bug out to a secured location then by all means purchase some land.  Save 10% of your monthly income and you should have enough money within two years to get a couple acres of land.  The benefit of buying land is being able to build up supplies and housing prior to doomsday…


Bugging out to a preselected campsite is what most preppers are planning on doing when the shit hits the fan.  Two things I have to make very clear, if you have no survival skills whatsoever camping may not be the best option for you.  Secondly, people who plan to be happy campers when doomsday hits don’t take weather into consideration.  For some reason people don’t understand camping isn’t the best option during the winter, nor is it sound thinking if you live near a desert and the apocalypse comes dead in the middle of summer, where temperatures have reached up to 125°.  At best, camping is a short-term option in ideal climates relying upon too many variables.

Bugging out to abandoned or natural structures…

You’ll have to do a little research about your state but every state in the Republic has abandoned mines (over 500,000 to choose from), ghost towns that are far away from major highways and population centers, or natural structures such ascaves.  Abandoned structures will keep you out of extreme elements but can be dangerous.  Abandoned structures may not be structurally sound, and there’s always the possibility of other people having the same idea you had.  If you don’t have the money to buy land, and your surrounding environment is too extreme to camp in, this may be the safer option for you.

Recreational Vehicles…

I am all for bugging out to a recreational vehicle, but I’m not necessarily too kean on bugging out with an RV.  Why?  My main issue with using an RV to bug out is its inability to travel through poor conditions such as (mud, ice, debris) without getting stuck, while another disadvantage to bugging out in RVs is you’re basically driving around a giant billboard of preparedness that some people might notice. Now if you own an Earth Roamer XV-SLT 4X4, by all means go for it.  If not, it might be a good idea to buy an acre of land where you can park your RV allowing you to use your bug out vehicle to get there safely.

Travelling to your Bug Out Location

When people are considering bug out locations they don’t factor in how they’re going to get there, and the many variables that come with it often imagining post apocalypse conditions will be ideal.  If you need to bug out, it’s the middle of winter, many roads are frozen over, and your entire town is trying to get out before things get too bad.  Does your bug out plan compensate for an alternate route, additional fuel usage, and etc?  Ensure a safe bug out by…

Have alternate evacuation routes that don’t go beyond your vehicle’s capabilitiesEstablish a PNR (point of no return) for your fuel and have 10 more gallons of fuel than needed for the trip to and from your bug out locationAvoid population centers that could effectively block your route to your bug out locationTake the road less traveled avoiding major highways within thirty miles of major citiesHave a reliable 4×4 bug out vehicle that can get you to and from your bug out locationAlways have a hard copy map! I always keep a Rand McNally US Road Map in my BOV in case my primary and secondary bug out locations are compromisedHave a back up bug out location in case your original destination is compromised


stealth style

In this guide we’re going to talk about a commonly overlooked and underestimated survival skill, the art of stealth.  After the apocalypse every man, woman, and child will be in a no holds barred death-match for survival, clawing through the filth grasping to anything resembling a shred of hope, and even the slightest sound will ring in their ears like a siren’s howl.  They will frantically seek out any wisp of sound with an unparalleled frenzy of desperation, forcing the most virtuous man to do unimaginable things that’ll undoubtedly earn him a front row seat at the Gates of Hell.

‘Man is the cruelest animal’ — Friedrich Nietzsche

Now that I’ve got your attention, maybe you can understand the importance of silence.  Our prepper lifestyle may keep us safe after doomsday, but it does make us a target.  It’s an undeniable fact those who aren’t preppers know that we exist, and will seek us out after humanity falls.  While the world plunges into madness raping, looting, and murdering it would be foolish to think we can sit in our ivory towers without marauders storming our gates.  We need to be ready to mask our presence from the outside world, and in this article we are going to discuss many ways we can prevent detection by outside (possibly hostile) elements.

Silent shelter, silent night…

People will be scouring the countryside listening for any sign of life.  We don’t advocate your post-apocalyptic lifestyle being a never ending story of silent misery, but your shelter needs to be able to mask sounds from within keeping you protected.  If little Becky and Tina want to play, or your old lady wants to harp at you we feel they should be able to do so. Now let’s figure out what we can do to muffle those sweet sounds of merriment and matrimonial bliss. Luckily not only is it easy to fix, its inexpensive too.  All you need to do is get 3M Spray Adhesive,Acoustic Foam Padding, and apply the foam tiles to the interior of your shelter’s walls, greatly reducing the amount of sound that escapes your house.

Almost all of us have a generator to power our gadgets after the world ends, but do those same generators that provide us magnanimous power create a security risk?  Short answer, of course they do.  Generators make a whole hell of a lot of noise, and can be heard from a hundred feet or so. What do we do to address this?  The obvious choice is to buy a solar powered generator instead of a gas powered generator.  Solar power generators like the Yeti 1250 WH are pretty expensive but can be operated with complete silence and no fumes.  The cost effective alternative is purchasing a new model gas powered generator like theDuroStar 4000 watt that has less noise than the older models.  Instead of having your generator right outside your shelter, build a small structure with acoustic foam padding to house your generator, and disguise it with surrounding foliage so it can be operated as inconspicuously as possible.

Loose lips sink ships!

On usCrow we often write about the importance of operational security (OPSEC) before doomsday.  Too many of you talk about your lifestyle as a prepper putting yourselves at risk.  Even your closest friends could turn on you when it comes down to a choice between their life and yours.  After doomsday though, your OPSEC needs to be absolutely bulletproof and unyielding.  Instruct every member of your family that no one is to leave your home with anything that could lead someone back to your home IDs, drivers licenses, passports, and etc this includes any paperwork in your car like insurance cards or registration.  The idea is to never talk about what you do with people who aren’t part of your group, and never have anything on you that will lead an enemy back to your door step…

Ghost prepper…

When you’re scavenging or scouting in the field your gear says a lot about you like‘Hey bad guys, I’m over here!’.  How many times have you gone hiking and heard a another hiker coming within earshot of you, hearing every single step they make because of their loose gear clinking and clanking. Tighten that gear up!  Zippers, keys, dog tags, and anything else that goes clank in the night needs to be fastened down or wrapped with electrical tape to dampen the noise.

Not only can your gear expose you, but so can electronics. Imagine one of your group’s members need medicine and you decide to check out a nearby pharmacy.  As you approach it you catch a group of four covered in blood who look like they just ate a small Nicaraguan family trying to break into the pharmacy.  You decide to hide behind a dumpster to wait for them to leave, and without warning your super tacticool Suunto watch alarm goes off ‘ding-ding ding-ding’, then out the corner of your eye you catch a glimpse of the blood drenched cannibals running after you.  Guess who’s for dinner… Before you venture into the wasteland shut off your iPods, Gameboys, Cellphones, and any other electronics that could possibly give up your location.

Stealth rider…

One of the most absurd trends to hit this generation is having a perfectly good truck with a loud ass rice-burner on it.  If you’re concerned about staying alive for any amount of time after SHTF you need to go back to your stock exhaust.  Here’s another question for you.  How many times have you accidentally, or in a fit of rage slammed on your horn.  Slip-ups like this can’t be afforded after doomsday because a car’s horn can be heard from up to two-hundred feet.  Avoid biffing it with your horn after the world ends by disconnecting your horn, and any alarm system that could be accidentally engaged.

Killing them softly…

Unless we are in the middle of a zombie apocalypse put your damn knife away, you are not a ninja.  The only time you grab your knife is when you’re out of ammo, brother.  I’m not against training to defend yourself with a knife as a last option, I just want you guys to live in the real world.  That being said you now have to worry about silencing your primary weapon, which is your rifle.  Before doomsday comes you should invest in an effective rifle suppressor, and let me tell you the best suppressors on the market today are offered by Thunder Beast Arms Corp.  Can’t afford a silencer?  You can learn how to make a silencer by reading our guide.